This is a professional level project, requiring a plumbing license and a plumbing permit in most jurisdictions. Please follow all local codes and ordinances when doing advanced plumbing projects.
Project: Moving the laundry machine, adding to the plumbing system.
How to add laundry washing machine plumbing pipes
Tools needed: a fifty foot heavy duty electrical extension cord, rotary hammer concrete drill, right angle wood-boring drill, small hammer drill, screwdriver drill, cast-iron snap-cutters, reciprocating saw, two and five eighths inch concrete core bit, three quarter inch concrete rotary drill bit, three inch hole saw, three sixteenths concrete drill bit, tape measure, hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, pex cutter, pex crimping tool, torpedo level, small sledgehammer, cold chisel, metal snips and a five/sixteenths nutdriver.
Materials needed: Two four inch shielded no-hub couplings, two feet of four inch schedule forty dwv pvc pipe, twenty five feet of three inch schedule forty dwv pvc pipe, twenty feet of two inch schedule forty dwv pvc pipe, pvc cement, pvc primer, a dozen two inch weather-proof wood screws, twenty five feet of band-iron strapping, six concrete fastening lags, one four by three pvc wye, one three inch dwv pvc street eighth bend, one three inch dwv pvc coupling, two three inch dwv pvc longturn quarter bends, one three by two dwv pvc wye, one two inch dwv pvc street eighth bend, one two inch dwv pvc sanitary tee, one two inch dwv pvc trap, one two inch air admittance valve, one three inch dwv pvc fitting cleanout and plug, twenty feet of half inch pex tubing, two half inch brass crimp tees, two half inch brass crimp ninety degree elbows, two half inch crimp by female drop ear elbows, two half inch male threaded boiler drains, twelve half inch copper crimp rings, and one roll of Teflon tape.
Preparation: Turn off the water supply and make sure that nobody will be using the plumbing system for the day. Lay out all the tools and materials in the work area, so that time is not wasted going back and forth to get stuff.
Layout: Layout the exact area where the laundry plumbing is to be located. Visualize where the pipes will go and exactly what fittings and pipes will be used. Using a measuring tape mark where the holes will be drilled for the water pipes and drain pipes, taking into consideration the outside pipe diameter and the pitch of the drain pipe as it flows downhill towards the main drain. Two small holes for the water pipes will go through the floor, and the basement wall, one large hole will go for the drain pipe will go through the floor and basement wall.
Layout where the three inch horizontal drain pipe will tie into the four inch cast iron soil stack via the four by three wye. All the measurements and marks will have to be carefully thought out and measured; taking into consideration the pipes, fittings, pitch, etc. Layout is the most important part of rough-in plumbing pipe installation, and where the most mistakes are made. It helps to have a lot of experience doing plumbing projects and the ability to clearly visualize the completed project before a single hole is marked or drilled. Also, it is extremely important to DOUBLE-CHECK your measurements and markings of your layout BEFORE you drill. As the old saying goes, measure twice, cut once!
Drilling: The layout is done, the holes are marked precisely and double-checked. Now the drills can be set up and the holes drilled. I started this project using the Hilti TE-70 rotary hammer drill and 2 5/8 core bit to drill through the concrete floor of the new laundry room. First I cut a section of carpet out of the way, then started drilling the floor. The Hilti core bit easily cut through the concrete, but I hit a piece of rebar at the bottom of the concrete just above the plywood. I stopped, as not to ruin the core bit on the steel rebar and instead drilled a pilot hole through the plywood and then went below and used the Milwaukee hole-hawg drill and 3 hole-saw to cut through the plywood from below. After cutting through the plywood, I was able to easily use the reciprocating saw to cut through the steel rebar on each side of the hole so as to have complete clearance for the vertical drain pipe. I then drilled through the block wall using the 3/4″ rotary bit, drilling a bunch of holes in a circular pattern on the concrete block and then knocking out the center of the hole with a small sledgehammer. I drilled the water pipe holes using a bit.
Piping: I then used the cast-iron snapper to snap a section out of the cast-iron stack and install the 43 wye, using the 4 inch no-hub couplings to attach the PVC to the cast-iron. Then I measured and cut my pipes and cemented on the fittings, using the band-iron to hang the drain pipe at the proper pitch, checking it with the torpedo level as I went. The minimum pitch I usually use is 1/4 of drop per one foot of horizontal run, in this case I was able to use more pitch than is minimally required in order to avoid being under-pitched. Under-pitched pipe will not drain properly and is a common cause of drainage problems. After completing the drain work, I piped in the waterlines for the hot and cold water supply and installed the drop ear ells to the wall using concrete fasteners, and threaded the boiler drains in the ells using Teflon tape.
How to add laundry washing machine plumbing pipes How to add laundry washing machine plumbing pipesHow to add laundry washing machine plumbing pipes
Testing: finally upon completion of all the piping, I turned the water on and tested out the system. The system is now ready for inspection and to be connected to the laundry machine!